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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. But, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest place achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.